Last Day in Jerusalem

I lieave Jerusalem a little after midnight, and am just typing this as I wrap up packing and getting it all together for a journey that will take over 30 hours! The past couple days have been blissful as I have pursued all that which I have wanted to see. Two days ago, Bethany, lincoln, and I walked to the Garden of Gethsemane to see the Curch of All Nations and where Jesus suffered the Agony. We joked that just about everywhere in Jersualem there is a church constructed to commemorate where Jesus did something. Along the way we saw the Tomb of the Prophets and Gahennah, which lincoln told me is a valley where they did human sacrifices in Biblical times, causing his pastor father to often say "It is hotter than Gahennah"- and so it was, and there was a fire burning, though I don't think it was human flesh. We then went to the Virgin Tomb which is dark and cavernous, down a steep and long flight of Crusader steps. Bethany surprised me when we got back and treated me, Lincoln, and Josh to Burgers Bar downtown, which was so good. We met up to say hello to Sam, as it was his last night, and then had a little after-dinner walk before hopping on a bus back to Mount Scopus.

The next day we woke up early in order to go to the Dome of the Rock, which is only open for non-Muslims to visit from 7:30 am- 11:00 am. we arrived at the Old City just as all the stalls and shops were opening, which was different to see. We got through security and took the Memonides bridge at the right of the wall to alight to the Temple Mount. The Dome of the Rock is about as holy as it gets, and to see it was absolutely amazing. The Temple Mount is huge, and was desolate, save for a few tour groups. We walked past the Al-Aqsa mosque and up steps, mouths agape looking at the Dome, built around 691 and covered in blue, green, and yellow tiles with gold-plated roof shining. Iwould die to be able to go inside, but thanks to the Second Intifada that right is reserved for Muslims only. Even so, just seeing the exterior, and being close to it, when we've spent all semster looking at it from a diatnce from our aprtment was amazing.

Still early, I headed to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where I was met by only a short line to get into the Tomb of Jesus. I gave Ben my ten cent tour and took in all of the wondrous nooks and crannies for one last time.

Bethany and I broke away from the general crwod to finish the last of out souvenier shopping, and I tried my hand at haggling for the last time. it will be interesting to try that at the mall back in the States (At Gap- "I'm seeing you want $24.95 for this shirt, but I really think it looks more like $16.00"...). I managed some last-minute deals from all of my favorite shopkeepers, which was good.

I then wrote my last note and made the winding journey to the Kotel from Jaffa Gate for the last time. The Western Wall was not crowded and I slipped my note right in, placed my hand on the stones and vowed to come back soon. We left the city by Damascus Gate and took the Arab #1 bus home, me holding back tears the whole time.

The rest of the afternoon was spent getting frozen yogurt on Ben Yehuda Street with my friends, one of which left last night. Now, I am packed up and ready to go. I am dreading saying goodbye to these people, have yet to fathom I am leaving my grand adventure and this grand place, but I have besically made peace with the fact that this is over, but is actually just the beginning of many more adventures.

Things I Will Miss from Israel: (In no particular order)

1. The Call to Prayer

2. Shabbat Dinner

3. Rugulach from Marzipan

4. The bustling of the Shuk

5. Bargaining

6. Kurdilopes

7. Naming taxi fare

8. Tinny Arabic music and cheesy Israeli ballads

9. The Bristish Cemetery

10. Jerusalem Stone

11. Free jimmies on fro-yo

12. Hookah

13. Church of the Holy Sepulchre

14. Religious Garb

15. People watching on the bus

16. Speaking Hebrew (sometimes)

17. Camels

18. The Kotel

19. Cabbage and Mayonnaise salad on pita.

20. The sun sparkling of the Dome of the rock, and the green lights of mosques at night.

21. French Flower Salesman

22. Political/religious talks

23. Zys and Michal

24. Nights spent with friends that went to fast.

Things I will NOT miss from Israel:

1. Mr. Zol's

2. "customer service"

3. Shower that leaks water all over the floor

4. Super long walk to school- uphill both ways, literally

5. Showing an ID and having my bag checked

6. Tension

7. Segregation

8. Cats everywhere

Last Shabbat

Probably one of my favorite things, if not my favorite thing, in Israel has been Shabbat dinner every week. Since everything is closed, it usually requires quite a bit of planning and my friends and I have always made it a nice time. We usually make assignments as far as who is responsiblef for whta dish(es) and the split up accordingly. For instance, Sam is always in charge of soup, because he makes truly excellent soup. So friday finds most of us in the wonderfully crowded market, followed by a quick stop to Mr. Zol's to try to score any wine that is on sale- we usually go for the 20 NIS bottle, and have yet to be disappointed. Mr. Zol's may be the most inefficient grocery store ever and have the worst cutomer service known to man. Mr. Zol means "Mr. cheap", which it is most definitely NOT. The shuk, by comaprison, is so amazing- try about 5 avacados for 3 NIS, or $0.75. I also love taking in the crowd- everyone is bustling around, Marzipan is so crowded with people buying their sweet challah and famous rugulach for dessert. Lana and I love peeking in the spice shop to see if we can score some free food that they are always making. It's hard for me to begin with how much I love the shuk, actually. The smells and sights and sounds are so enthralling. I sent Sable scarves and she said she could smell the market in them, really it is the smell of Israel which can only be described as pungent. The shuk is Jerusalem in a microcosm- bustling, all different people meeting in their rush to get somewhere or own something and inevitably getting in one anothers way.

Getting back to Shabbat- I normally get home from the market, take a relaxing shabbat nap, and then wake up in time to whip up my contribution and shower and dress in Shabbat clothes. All of us, even the guys, always dress up. In fact, Sam always dons a lovely matching keepah. We then usually light candles when we've all gathered and Sam offers up a short kiddush before Lana blesses the bread. I like it best when Lana does the prayer with the bread because she breaks off pieces and throws them to us. We then gather around the table for a long meal, clean up, and then have round two of desserts. The best was when Huma brought baklava from the Muslim Quarter. We always make Shabbat last as long as possible by hooka-ing and chatting in comfier clothes until late. Lana and I always make breakfast the next morning and everyone lumbers down in pj's in time to eat before we disband for the day.

This weekend, we tried to make Shabbat last as long as possible. First, we had a wonderful meal with 17 people in our apartment at big tables. Josh made schnitzel and potatoes, Sam made delicious onion soup, Lana dished out her famously dressed Israeli salad and we had an array of other dishes. Everyone was fabuloauly dressed, and Ian made a moving toast about his feeling accepted by our amazing group of friends. We then talked around the table for a long time before spreading out quite a few cakes and rugulach. After the lengthier-than-normal dinner, we changed and grabbed our matresses. After some clever spacial reasoning, we fit 8 of us in Lana, Sarah, and Amalia's apartment and had a slumber party. After a pillow fight that ended with Lincoln the victor over me, some hookah, and a little more wine, we went to bed around 3. I stayed up until 4 to listen to the call to prayer mixed with my friends' breathing while overlooking the orange and green lights of the city from the 8th floor. I used that moment to be so thankful, and to hope that I would be ready when the time came to leave, but I am still not sure that I will be there.

The next morning Lana and I awoke early so she could make her famous challah french toast and I could whip up my spicy potatoes. Everone came down eventually, eyes half-closed with sleep but hungry, and we had another long meal before all heading off to begrudgingly wrap up our work. I was so sad when it was over.

This group of friends has been the best. I could have studied in the worst of destinations and had a good time, had the same group been around. Some days, this place was bad, and then I could bounce my thoughts and feelings (usually confused) off of them. And when it was really, really good (most of the time) I was happy to be sharing it with them. They found the best places to go and to eat, made "that's what she said" jokes, rooted me on, and were just a lot of fun; offering smart and funny introspections that colored my own experiences here. Our group was also the only multi-religious (or nonreligious) group, which was totally accepting. No one bristled at explaining things or answering questions, and everyone listened as well. It was cool to see everyone embrace the idea of Shabbat- I learned so much about a cultural festivity that was wonderful to take part in, and we all enjoyed one anothers company. I looked out that night, seeing such a diverse mix of people cooking, talking, drinking wine, and laughing together, and I was just so grateful to be with them.