Last Shabbat

Probably one of my favorite things, if not my favorite thing, in Israel has been Shabbat dinner every week. Since everything is closed, it usually requires quite a bit of planning and my friends and I have always made it a nice time. We usually make assignments as far as who is responsiblef for whta dish(es) and the split up accordingly. For instance, Sam is always in charge of soup, because he makes truly excellent soup. So friday finds most of us in the wonderfully crowded market, followed by a quick stop to Mr. Zol's to try to score any wine that is on sale- we usually go for the 20 NIS bottle, and have yet to be disappointed. Mr. Zol's may be the most inefficient grocery store ever and have the worst cutomer service known to man. Mr. Zol means "Mr. cheap", which it is most definitely NOT. The shuk, by comaprison, is so amazing- try about 5 avacados for 3 NIS, or $0.75. I also love taking in the crowd- everyone is bustling around, Marzipan is so crowded with people buying their sweet challah and famous rugulach for dessert. Lana and I love peeking in the spice shop to see if we can score some free food that they are always making. It's hard for me to begin with how much I love the shuk, actually. The smells and sights and sounds are so enthralling. I sent Sable scarves and she said she could smell the market in them, really it is the smell of Israel which can only be described as pungent. The shuk is Jerusalem in a microcosm- bustling, all different people meeting in their rush to get somewhere or own something and inevitably getting in one anothers way.

Getting back to Shabbat- I normally get home from the market, take a relaxing shabbat nap, and then wake up in time to whip up my contribution and shower and dress in Shabbat clothes. All of us, even the guys, always dress up. In fact, Sam always dons a lovely matching keepah. We then usually light candles when we've all gathered and Sam offers up a short kiddush before Lana blesses the bread. I like it best when Lana does the prayer with the bread because she breaks off pieces and throws them to us. We then gather around the table for a long meal, clean up, and then have round two of desserts. The best was when Huma brought baklava from the Muslim Quarter. We always make Shabbat last as long as possible by hooka-ing and chatting in comfier clothes until late. Lana and I always make breakfast the next morning and everyone lumbers down in pj's in time to eat before we disband for the day.

This weekend, we tried to make Shabbat last as long as possible. First, we had a wonderful meal with 17 people in our apartment at big tables. Josh made schnitzel and potatoes, Sam made delicious onion soup, Lana dished out her famously dressed Israeli salad and we had an array of other dishes. Everyone was fabuloauly dressed, and Ian made a moving toast about his feeling accepted by our amazing group of friends. We then talked around the table for a long time before spreading out quite a few cakes and rugulach. After the lengthier-than-normal dinner, we changed and grabbed our matresses. After some clever spacial reasoning, we fit 8 of us in Lana, Sarah, and Amalia's apartment and had a slumber party. After a pillow fight that ended with Lincoln the victor over me, some hookah, and a little more wine, we went to bed around 3. I stayed up until 4 to listen to the call to prayer mixed with my friends' breathing while overlooking the orange and green lights of the city from the 8th floor. I used that moment to be so thankful, and to hope that I would be ready when the time came to leave, but I am still not sure that I will be there.

The next morning Lana and I awoke early so she could make her famous challah french toast and I could whip up my spicy potatoes. Everone came down eventually, eyes half-closed with sleep but hungry, and we had another long meal before all heading off to begrudgingly wrap up our work. I was so sad when it was over.

This group of friends has been the best. I could have studied in the worst of destinations and had a good time, had the same group been around. Some days, this place was bad, and then I could bounce my thoughts and feelings (usually confused) off of them. And when it was really, really good (most of the time) I was happy to be sharing it with them. They found the best places to go and to eat, made "that's what she said" jokes, rooted me on, and were just a lot of fun; offering smart and funny introspections that colored my own experiences here. Our group was also the only multi-religious (or nonreligious) group, which was totally accepting. No one bristled at explaining things or answering questions, and everyone listened as well. It was cool to see everyone embrace the idea of Shabbat- I learned so much about a cultural festivity that was wonderful to take part in, and we all enjoyed one anothers company. I looked out that night, seeing such a diverse mix of people cooking, talking, drinking wine, and laughing together, and I was just so grateful to be with them.